A Guide To Rock Climbing in the New River Gorge

Experience the beautiful vistas of the 63rd National Park — the New River Gorge National Park and Preserve — from exhilarating new heights on a rock climbing adventure. Once solely the domain of thrill-seekers in remote landscapes, rock climbing has transformed into an outdoor pursuit accessible to everyone. Here’s your comprehensive guide to rock climbing in the New River Gorge.

A Rock Climbing Destination

Vast, sandstone cliffs — older and harder than most others of its type and ranging from 30 to 120 feet in height — define the New River Gorge climbing scene. To a novice climber, these impressive formations can seem intimidating, but scaling a rock wall is one of the most exhilarating ways to get outside and explore the Gorge.

According to the Mountain Project, the New River Gorge region is one of the largest, most diverse and highest-quality climbing areas in the East. Located between three major river gorges — the New, the Gauley and the Meadow — the area boasts over 3,000 established routes spanning 60 miles of cliffline, along with hundreds of authorized bouldering areas. 

The routes offer great protection while climbing, including drilled bolts and traditional gear placements. Within these miles of sandstone cliffs, you’re sure to find the perfect route of any style. The New River Gorge has every type of climbing, including trad, sport and bouldering. Climbers can expect to face plenty of cracks, roofs, slabs, faces and overhangs.

Climbing Styles in the Gorge

• Trad Climbing: In traditional climbing, climbers place their own protective gear and remove it upon completion. This type of climbing can be as short as the length of one rope (one pitch). Popular spots for trad climbing in the Gorge include Junkyard Wall and Bridge Area Crags.
• Sport Climbing: This type of climbing relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock for protection. Sport climbing places an emphasis on strength and endurance. Bubba City, Kaymoor Slabs and Beauty Mountain are great spots for sport climbing in the Gorge.
• Bouldering: Bouldering involves climbing short routes without ropes, relying on crash pads for safety. Needleseye Park in Oak Hill is a prime location for bouldering, featuring a 2-mile rock wall and other natural rock features.

Roping Choices

In addition to the different styles of climbing, there are also different roping choices.

• Top-Roping: Ideal for beginners, top-roping uses ropes that run through anchors at the top of a climbing route. One end of the rope is attached to the climber’s harness and the other to the belayer.
• Lead Climbing: The lead climber attaches the rope to bolts as they ascend — either permanent (sport climbing) or self-placed (trad climbing) — while the belayer feeds enough rope to keep the lead climber safely moving. Multi-pitch climbing is lead climbing but completing more than one pitch at a time.

Main Climbing Areas

Explore different zones within the Gorge, each offering unique challenges and scenic vistas. From the well-developed crags of New River Gorge Proper and the adventurous Meadow River Gorge to the picturesque Summersville Lake and popular bouldering spots, every area promises an unforgettable climbing experience.

Getting Started

Equip yourself with essential gear — helmet, harness, belay device, chalk bag, climbing shoes and appropriate ropes — to embark on your climbing adventure. Understanding basic climbing terminology will enhance your experience and safety:

• Belay: The system that stops a climber’s fall using rope, anchors, a belay device and a belayer.
• Crag: A small cliff or climbing area.
• Crux: The hardest move or sequence of moves on a climb.
• Heel Hook: A technique where the heel of the foot is used to pull against a hold on the rock.
• Rappel: To descend at a managed speed along a fixed rope.
• Route: The path of moves up a specific climb.

Learn The Ropes 

While the majority of routes in the New River Gorge cater to intermediate and advanced climbers, beginners can also enjoy the thrill of climbing under the guidance of local experts. Professional climbing companies like Appalachian Mountain Guides and New River Mountain Guides offer beginner-friendly trips to popular scenic spots. These companies provide tailored instruction for climbers of all skill levels, ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience. Each company supplies necessary equipment and expert-certified guides to match participants’ abilities and adventure levels. 

For independent climbers, local outfitters like Water Stone Outdoors and ACE Adventure Gear Shop in Fayetteville offer high-quality gear.

Where To Stay

Complete your adventure with comfortable accommodations near the climbing action. Choose from nearby campgrounds offering primitive tent sites or RV hookups, providing convenience and immersion in the natural beauty of the Gorge.

Plan Your Trip

Rock climbing is a year-round activity, but for favorable weather conditions and manageable crowd levels, try to plan your trip between late April to mid-June and mid-September to late October. 

For more information about the area, request a free copy of our Travel Guide and get started planning your climbing trip.